On the 14th of March, within the walls of the Hôtel de Boisgelin, residence of the Italian Embassy in Paris, the distinguished gathering witnessed the unfolding of “90 years into the future” event, commemorating the illustrious 90th anniversary of the establishment of the Parmigiano Reggiano PDO Consortium. Amidst the esteemed presence of Her Excellency, Emanuela D’Alessandro, Italy’s Ambassador to France, alongside a cohort of both Italian and international press, the Consortium bestowed honor upon the 11 dairies winners of the “Palii del Parmigiano Reggiano” contests held throughout the annals of 2023. The occasion marked the inauguration of a novel accolade: the Casello d’Oro (Golden Dairy). The evening’s distinguished guest was Chef Massimo Bottura of Modena’s renowned Osteria Francescana, recipient of three coveted Michelin stars.
In 2023, a total of 11 competitions under the moniker “Palio del Parmigiano Reggiano” were meticulously orchestrated. These events, a fixture for 12 years running, grace the hallowed grounds of the Parmigiano Reggiano PDO’s birthplace, spanning the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Mantua on the right bank of the Po River, and Bologna on the left bank of the Reno River.
Participants, each representing a Consortium dairy, submit their finest aged Parmigiano Reggiano specimens aged between 24 to 26 months for evaluation by a distinguished jury of certified tasters from the Parmigiano Reggiano Tasters Association. The laurels of victory were bestowed upon 11 esteemed dairy establishments, securing their position as champions of the Palii del Parmigiano Reggiano 2023:
- Brugnoli F.lli Società Agricola (Bardi, Parma) – winner of Palio Città di Casina – Reggio Emilia
- Caseificio Sociale di Casola di Montefiorino s.a.c. (Montefiorino, Modena) – winner of Palio di Pavullo nel Frignano – Modena
- Cooperativa Casearia Castelnovese s.c.a. (Castelnuovo Rangone, Modena) – winner of Palio GustiaMo – Modena
- Latteria Agricola Mogliese s.c.a.r.l. (Sermide, Mantova) – winner of Palio Caseifici dell’Oltrepò Mantovano – Mantova
- Latteria Agricoltori Roncocesi s.c.a. (Reggio Emilia) – winner of Palio Teatro della Natura Viano – Reggio Emilia
- Latteria Sociale della Costa di Bazzano s.a.c. (Neviano degli Arduini, Parma) – winner of Palio di Pellegrino Parmense – Parma
- Latteria Sociale San Girolamo s.c.a. (Guastalla, Reggio Emilia) – winner of Palio di San Lucio – Parma
- Martinelli Romeo di Martinelli Gianpietro e Luca s.n.c. (Noceto, Parma) – winner of Palio di Montechiarugolo – Parma
- Pieve Roffeno s.a.c. (Castel d’Aiano, Bologna) – winner of Palio di San Petronio – Bologna
- Soc. Agr. Mezzadri Renzo Roberto Massimo e Stefano s.s. (Busseto, Parma) – winner of Palio dell’Artigianato di Soragna – Parma
- Società Agricola Dall’Aglio s.s. (Gattatico, Reggio Emilia) – winner of Palio Bibbiano la Culla – Reggio Emilia
Furthermore, two special commendations, dubbed “Paris 2024,” were bestowed: one upon Pieve Roffeno dairy for producing Parmigiano Reggiano with the most exemplary structure, and another upon Latteria Agricola Mogliese for crafting Parmigiano Reggiano with the most refined aromatic profile.
Emanuela D’Alessandro, Italy’s Ambassador to France, expressed her satisfaction with the choice of the Italian Embassy in Paris as the venue for this momentous occasion. “The 90th anniversary is indeed a significant milestone for all involved,” she noted. “For Parmigiano Reggiano PDO, France has historically been one of its foremost foreign markets.”
Nicola Bertinelli, President of the Consortium, emphasized the special significance of 2024 for the Parmigiano Reggiano community. “This year marks the 90th anniversary of our Consortium, the oldest of its kind in Italy within the food sector,” he highlighted. “We have opted for the magnificent Italian Embassy in Paris as our event venue, situated in the heart of our primary European market, where a substantial 12,944 tonnes were exported in 2022. Our aim is to celebrate the synergy between Parmigiano Reggiano and France, while also laying the groundwork for promoting the unique characteristics of our product, aiming to raise awareness not only among consumers but also producers.”
Chef Massimo Bottura reflected on the essence of Parmigiano Reggiano. “I attribute the essence of Parmigiano Reggiano to its prolonged aging process, the quality of the bovines’ diet, the wisdom passed down through generations over millennia, and the careful maturation of the cheese in the aging rooms,” he articulated. “From these elements arises a cheese that is both unparalleled and distinctive.”